Project Description

Variation Name: Corporate Green® (Evergreen Variety)


Cool Season Mixture

Pristine high value lawn that offers quality aesthetic value right through the year

Best Suited to domestic lawns, sports fields, corporate offices and parks and grounds with challenges like full shade, semi-shade and full sun. The trend towards smaller gardens surrounded by high walls means that lawns often have to grow in shadier conditions than adapted for.  Commonly used grasses such as Kikuyu cannot tolerate low light intensities and will die back in shady areas.

Corporate Green® is a “bunch-type” grass that thickens out by means of tillering and does poses the ability to recover from damage via reproductive function.  The advantage of this growth habit is a non-invasive grass, requiring much less edge trimming.

It is frost resistant provided autumn fertilization application is adhered to. Will stay green all year round.



Best times are spring and autumn.  Avoid very hot or very cold times of the year.

  • Cool Season
  • Shade Tolerant
  • Heat Tolerant
  • Improved disease resistance
  • New mixture can accommodate Higher Levels of Traffic
  • Aggressive growth
  • Recuperative growth potential

Water Wise:

How much water – minimum 25mm per week during summer. 15mm during winter periods.

Maintenance tips:


Start – When grass is 6 cm long.  Set the mower at its highest setting (no less than 3.5cm).

Height – Sunny areas 3 to 5 cm (4 to 5 cm recommended as lower heights necessitates twice weekly mowing).

  • Semi-shade 5 to 7 cm (the shadier the site, the longer the grass has to be).
  • 1/3 rd rule – Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a time.


Installation of an irrigation system is recommended especially for sunny sites.  It does not need much more water than the average grass, but it cannot be allowed to go brown (It doesn’t have storage roots /stems like Kikuyu).

At maturity, irrigate 25 – 35 mm per week in summer (2 or 3 times a week).  In very hot weather syringe lightly at noon and 15 – 25 mm per week in winter (1 or 2 times a week).

Once the grass has an established root system, the frequency of irrigation should be reduced.  You should irrigate thoroughly 2 or 3 times a week making sure that the water gets down at least 6cm.  Irrigating daily, but too lightly usually results in too much moisture at the surface and not enough in the root zone.

The best times to irrigate are at night or in the morning.  The worst time to irrigate is in the evening, because this extends the “Dew Period”, and keeps the leaves wet for too long a period.  This can cause problems with fungal diseases.  However, if the evening is the only available time, then it is better to water then than not at all.

When it is very hot, you can reduce heat stress by “syringing” the grass.  This is a very short irrigation cycle (a couple of minutes) that cools the grass leaves down.

Hot, dry times of the year will necessitate an increase in irrigation.  Dry areas will be stressed and more susceptible to disease.

Sunny areas of the garden need more water than shady areas.  An irrigation system with different zones to accommodate these differences is an advantage.  Otherwise supplementary irrigation in the sunny parts will be required.

The top of extreme slopes dries off very quickly.

Check that your irrigation system is delivering evenly by placing containers of equal size randomly on the lawn, and observing the difference in water volume after an irrigation cycle.

Don’t over water (especially in the shade).  Avoid puddles.

The grass needs water when it is having a blueish tinge and the leaf blades curl inwards.


50 g (approximate one handful) per m² of 5:1:5 or 3:1:5 four times a year (e.g. Jan, Apr, Jul, Oct).  Don’t forget the April application to avoid brown tips in winter.

 Slow release formulations are recommended as lawns do best when fertilised little and often.

Pests and Diseases

Take careful note of the symptoms, i.e. spots on leaves, size and location of patches etc. and phone the Africa Lawns or speak to a specialist in this field.  Remember that insects and fungal diseases does not function in straight lines, so if you see straight lines look for a man-made problem!

Healthy, actively growing lawn is less susceptible to everything so don’t skimp on fertilising (you can’t avoid regular mowing!).  Good air flow reduces humidity and helps to avoid disease (watch out for this in shady areas).  Don’t over water or underwater — both cause stress to all grasses.

Dog urine

Dog urine can sometimes cause scorching.  This is more common with spayed bitches and in very hot weather.


This grass tolerates traffic very well.  It is even used on rugby fields!  However, where traffic is excessive the pressure can be reduced by setting paving stones or sleepers into the grass and just mowing over the top.


The best way to avoid weeds is to have actively growing grass forming a dense canopy that does not allow light through to the soil surface.  Fertilise and mow regularly and you will literally “cut out” the majority of problems.  Ask a specialist before spraying a herbicide.

Aerating and Top dressing

Spiking or hollow tining: Use a garden fork or tining fork on highly compacted areas. Push the whole length of the tine into the soil and lift slightly to get good water and air penetration.

Top dressing: Never cover this grass with a layer of soil or compost!  The grass will die.